Here are my suggestions on How to sew with vintage sewing patterns.

• Determine if the pattern is printed (marked) or unprinted (unmarked). 

1.  Printed patterns: construction lines and markings (notches, darts, grain line, center folds ect…) are printed directly onto the pattern pieces.

2. Unprinted patterns:  construction lines and other markings are perforated onto the pattern pieces in the form of small cut outs used to symbolize markings such as darts, center folds and other construction markings.  These cut-out are usually various sized circles, squares and triangles. 

Look to the instruction sheet for explanations to the symbols.

3.  What you’ll definitely need:  A quality vintage sewing book as a resource, tools and supplies to make a basic pattern and muslin.

Tip:  For perforated patterns use chalk to transfer perforation markings. 

4.  Read all directions.

• In every standard pattern there’s a printed instruction sheet (also referred to as a guide sheet). Depending on the year of the sewing pattern, instructions might be printed onto the back of the pattern envelope.  Check your specific pattern.

The guide sheet contains directions and diagrams for laying out the pattern, cutting and constructing the garment.  Study the guide sheet carefully.

• Review the pattern layout.  Sometimes useful information is contained there.  Select the view or style you wish to use and draw a pencil line around the chosen style.
• As you carefully read the instruction sheet take note of pattern pieces.  Not all pattern pieces may have been originally included in the pattern.  For example, some pattern designs require gussets, facings and sashes.  These pattern pieces may not be included, but instead are the responsibility of the  maker to design with fabric scraps.  
• Study each marking on the pattern before using it.  Refer to the instruction sheet for details taking special note of grain and fold line markings. 

Suggestions for working with unprinted patterns (Perforated patterns):

1. Make a photocopy of the instruction sheet.  Use the photocopy during your project.  This way, the original isn’t ruined and you can mark on the photocopy as needed.   
2. If you’re able make careful copies of the pattern pieces, as not to ruin the original.  In this way, you can freely mark your pattern pieces with any useful construction information.
3. Using a yardstick or square, pencil in straight seam lines, darts, hemline, guidelines and other construction markings. 
4. Write the name of each pattern piece onto the pattern piece.
5. Draw curved lines such as armscyes and necklines carefully, parallel to the edges of the pattern.  PROPERLY marking is essential in working with vintage sewing patterns.
6. Rule grainlines the full length of the pattern.
7. Where there are notches rule short lines across seams.
8. Write on the meaning of pattern markings symbols ie…”cut on fold”, “ease”, “center front” and other noted directions directly onto the pattern pieces.
9. I strongly suggest using a muslin when working with vintage patterns.  It’ll save you a lot of time and effort if you perfect a basic pattern and muslin to your liking prior to attempting to make the vintage garment.

• Pay attention to seam allowances.  Some patterns may have a 5/8” seam allowance, others may not.  Some seam allowances are 3/8” or 1/2”, check the instruction sheet.
• If you make a muslin remember to check your muslin for ease, balance and placement of line.
• Check your measurements against the pattern’s measurements by taking your own measurements and comparing them in size with those accompanying the pattern:  bust measure, sleeve length, waist measure, hip measure and length.  Free measurement chart here.

For more information

• Sewing 101: Vintage sewing pattern lingo it’s worth knowing