To be your own stylist, when working with vintage or contemporary patterns, it’s essential to learn how to adapt a basic pattern.

This process begins with making a master sloper; followed by a muslin mock up to test the fit of the sloper pattern.  The muslin may be cut, marked and altered in any way necessary to acquire a final perfect fit.  Changes to the muslin are then applied to the corresponding sloper. 

Once a perfected sloper is acquired, repeated fitting, unless a figure undergoes drastic changes, is unnecessary. 

From the sloper fashion is made. 

So what exactly is a sloper?

It’s a basic garment pattern developed from dress forms, live models, specific measurements or other manufacturer specifications containing no style lines or seam allowances.  Individual pieces of a sloper are referred to as blocks.  Blocks don’t include facings, hems, linings or other finishing details.   

General sloper patterns consist of:  a bodice front, bodice back and sleeve blocks.

How can you obtain a sloper?

·         Buy a basic pattern from a fabric store.

·         Make your own using a simple pattern consisting of necessary pieces mentioned earlier.

Key points to remember:

1.      Don’t eliminate necessary steps of preparation in making the muslin.

2.      Master pattern drafters pay close attention to ensuring exact measurements are taken and applied to the sloper.

3.      Don’t over fit.  If additional alterations are necessary those changes are applied to the muslin.  Once satisfied with alterations made to the muslin, changes are then applied to the sloper.

4.      Three primary measurements are needed in buying a basic pattern:

·         Bust (taken from the fullest part of the body).

·         Hips (taken from the fullest part of the body).

·         Waist.

Pictures:  Vogue Basic 1000. 

For more information

How to use a basic pattern with a commercial pattern

Sample:  Butterick basic

Sample:  Simplicity basic