Patternmaking Tools

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Patternmaking may sound simplistic, but it’s actually a complicated art.  Expert patternmakers go as far as calling it a science. Patternmaking and cutting is the backbone to quality sewing.

Whether you’re formally trained or self-taught, patternmaking is a skill anyone can learn with the right tools. 

Note: Always get the best tools you can afford. It’ll show in the quality of your workmanship and helps alleviate the need of replacing tools too often.  

• Styling Design Ruler
A styling design ruler is used for altering patterns and garments. It features three rulers in one: a French curve, hip curve and straight ruler, in addition to cut-out slots.
• Pattern Notcher
Pattern notchers are used for making matching-point notches on the outer edges of pattern pieces. It also cuts through tag board.
• French Curves (metal or plastic), hip and other vary for curves and styling design rulers.
Individual curves are used for shaping necklines, armholes, sleeve caps, darts, crotch seams, lapels, pockets and collars. Hip curves are used for drawing curved hems, hips and other slightly curved areas.
• Pattern Hooks with cord
Pattern hooks are used to properly hang patterns.
• L-Square
Similar to a T-square, but shaped like the letter L, it’s used to draw straight lines while ensuring lines are parallel or perpendicular lines. Each arm is calibrated, (on two edges on one side and on one edge on the reverse) in 1⁄8, 1⁄24, 1⁄32, 1⁄2, 1⁄4, 1/8ths, 16ths, 2/3rds, 6ths and 12ths.
• Pattern Tracer
A pattern tracer, (tracing while) is used to transfer markings from pattern onto fabric with or without tracing paper, the tool also makes slotted perforations. The most durable tracers have wooden handles and metal teeth on its wheel.
• T-Square
The T-square is shaped like t he letter T. The top of the t-square is horizontal and the long part is vertical. Used for marking straight parallel or perpendicular lines.

• Pattern Shears
Cutting is extremely important in patternmaking and sewing. Without good cut, the sloper is doomed. Purchase a pair of heavy duty pattern shears that have an extra long shank and heavy blades.
• Tag board and dotted marking paper
Papers used in making pattern pieces.
• A cloth weight
Cloth weights are used to weight down pattern pieces.
• Stitching Awl
A simple tool with which holes can be punctured in a variety of materials, or existing holes can be enlarged. It is also used for sewing heavy materials, such as leather or canvas.
• Muslin
Inexpensive cotton fabric used to make mock-ups while perfecting the sloper.
• Tailors Crayons and Chalk & Sharpener
Tailor crayons and chalk are used to mark fabric pleats, darts, diamonds, buttonholes, and other cutting or constructing lines and designs. They disappear after ironing.
• Gridded Rulers
Clear gridded rulers. These allow you to measure pencil markings from the top. Also used for adding seam allowances.

Recommended Books

Clothing Construction
Patternmaking for Fashion Design and DVD

Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers

For more information

How to make a sewing pattern