From Butterick Publishing Company (1921)

Open your pattern to identify various enclosed pattern pieces by using the diagram printed on the back of the envelope.

If the two sides of the pattern are exactly alike you’ll find that the pattern is for just half the garment and each piece is to be cut double or twice.

A front gore pattern is cut with its front edge on the fold of the goods.  If one side is different from the other a pattern will be given for each part that is different as in the ease of a skirt which is draped on one side and not on the other.

The two side gores are either cut singly or from a double thickness of the material.

After you have identified each piece of the pattern decide which ones you’re are going to use and put the others back in the envelope. 

Vintage Butterick patterns also came with what the company referred to as the DELTOR ILLUSTRATED LAY-OUTS FOR CUTTING.  These lay outs show how to lay-out the pattern pieces for cutting every size in which the pattern is cut and on material of every width suitable for the garment.  If there are two or three ways of making a garment from the pattern, the layouts cover each method of making the garment. 

 PERFORATIONS

Every piece of the pattern is marked with perforations and notches which have different meaning and different uses.

Large double perforations are used in cutting.  They show you how to lay the pattern on the right grain of your material.  These large double perforations form a straight line which is always placed lengthwise or crosswise on the material.

When they are laid on lengthwise they are parallel to the selvedge edges.

When they are laid on crosswise they run across the material from selvedge to selvedge. 

Take a ruler and draw a straight line through these perforations.  It makes it easier to see that the line is the same distance from the selvedge from end to end.

These large double perforations must be laid on a straight thread of the material so that the garment will set well and have the best effect when finished.

Large triple perforations are also used for cutting but they are always laid on the fold of the material, some vintage skirt patterns are cut with one bias edge on each gore.  Others have two bias edges, depending on the design of the skirt.  The perforations in the pattern will show you how that particular skirt should be cut.

After you have pinned your pattern onto the material take a ruler or tape and measure the cutting line to be sure that it is the same distance from the selvedge on each group of perforations.

Small double perforations are always used to mark the normal waistline in skirts, blouses, coats, etc…In some cases they are also used to indicate special outlines at the neck.

Large single perforations and small single perforations either alone or together are used for different purposes and their use is always shown in the illustrated instructions of the pattern.

Notches (single & double) are used at seam edges to show which edges should come together.  Edges marked with notches are put together with the duplicate notches matching. 

The illustrated instructions show you just how to use every perforation and every notch. 

Outlet seams are marked by large single perforations.  In basting them the basting line should run exactly through the center of these perforations.

Ordinary seams are marked by large single perforations but are basted exactly 3/8 inch from the seam edge. 

The outlet seams are not marked by large single perforations.  In basting them the basting line should run exactly through the center of these perforations.  The outlet seam is deeper than the ordinary seams.  It is made this way so that it could be let out if it is necessary to make any slight alteration to suit the individual figure.  They are generally used at underarm and shoulder seam, and very often in the seams of sleeves.  In other words, outlet seams give you an opportunity to alter the garment if needed.

Ordinary seams are not marked by perforations but are basted 3/8 inch from the seam edge.  A 3/8 of an inch seam allowance is made on all edges not cut on the fold of the goods, or finished with a hem.  In basting, the seam lines must be followed exactly.  If you make them deeper or narrower you will alter the size of the garment.

Notches (single & double) are used at seam edges to show which edges should come together.  Edges marked with notches are put together with the duplicate notches matching. 

The illustrated instructions show you just how to use every perforation and every notch. 

Outlet seams are marked by large single perforations.  In basting them the basting line should run exactly through the center of these perforations.

Ordinary seams are marked by large single perforations but are basted exactly 3/8 inch from the seam edge. 

The outlet seams are not marked by large single perforations.  In basting them the basting line should run exactly through the center of these perforations.  The outlet seam is deeper than the ordinary seams.  It is made this way so that it could be let out if it is necessary to make any slight alteration to suit the individual figure.  They are generally used at underarm and shoulder seam, and very often in the seams of sleeves.  In other words, outlet seams give you an opportunity to alter the garment if needed.

Ordinary seams are not marked by perforations but are basted 3/8 inch from the seam edge.  A 3/8 of an inch seam allowance is made on all edges not cut on the fold of the goods, or finished with a hem.  In basting, the seam lines must be followed exactly.  If you make them deeper or narrower you will alter the size of the garment.

For more information

• How to use vintage sewing patterns
• Sewing 101: Vintage sewing pattern lingo it’s worth knowing
• History of Butterick