How to read vintage sewing pattern markings
Opening a vintage pattern for the first time is a shock if you’re not sure of what to expect. Both are interpreted the same way.There are two types of patterns:
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Those with printed pattern markings (printed patterns) and
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Those without printed pattern markings (unprinted patterns).
Perforated Patterns
Because pattern pieces aren’t marked it’s necessary to write the name of each pattern piece on the tissue paper or make a mental note by referring to the pattern envelope illustration or instruction sheet.
For example, write left bodice on the left bodice piece. Determine the appropriate piece by comparing the shapes of the piece with the diagrams on the back of the pattern envelope or on the instruction sheet.
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Notches: The three cornered piece cut out of the edge of your pattern. Notches show where pieces of the pattern are to be joined together. You’ll find single, double and triple notches.
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Perforations: A circles or squares punched out of the pattern. The circles and squares can be two or three different sizes ranging from small to large on the same piece of pattern.
1. Perforations about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from the notched edge of a pattern piece mean to stitch matching pieces together along the line marked by these perforations.
2. The distance between the edge of the pattern and the row of perforations is the seam allowance.
3. Perforations are used to mark the allowance of the hem or the facing of the neck, sleeves or side opening of a dress.
Printed Patterns
Pattern pieces are labeled and pre-marked.
Assembling your garment will make construction simple and efficient. On some older patterns the bodice is referred to a “waist” or “shirt waist”.
For more information
How to sew with vintage sewing patterns
How to use vintage sewing books
are seamlines included or need to be added?
Good question. Seam allowances on vintage sewing patterns is extremely important. In fact, some patterns specificly state to follow the seam allowance exactly or the garment design will not work. That said, each sewing pattern manufacturer’s seam allowance/requirements are different. You’ll need to read the instruction sheet that’s included with the pattern to decipher seam allowances. Some unmarked vintage sewing patterns have seam allowances that are marked with perforations directly onto the pattern pieces.
In general, when working with vintage sewing patterns the seam allowance is anywhere from 5/8 ” to 1″. I hope this helps and happy sewing!
P.S. I’ve added a few links to help with working with vintage sewing pattern.
Callie