“Most of us think one dimensionally when using the word pattern or dressmaker pattern. In actuality there are many ways of developing pattern pieces, which in turn can be sewn into the beautiful garments we all wish to wear.
For example-
Tissue Patterns are sometimes referred to as commercial patterns, but generally are given the name of their manufacturer: Vogue, Hollywood, Simplicity, McCall, Advance or Butterick. Mail-order Patterns are sold through newspapers. In the beginning the patterns were simple, crude and made of rough paper. The user paid a rental to cut them. Ebenezer Butterick, a tailor, who rented his original patterns, or cut the garments himself and charged for the use of the pattern and for his time cutting. The first patterns were of men’s and boy’s clothing, which were made at home by hand, usually by backstitches!Draping some say is an art. Designers in the world’s fashion markets drape fabric on mannequins and people, using no patterns. Drapers are artist who so skilled in handling fabric and in draping free-hand cutting that they could cut a garment “by eye” and have it conform perfectly to the silhouette. From these draped original creations, master patterns are made and are used for manufacturing the “line.”
I use the Flat-Pattern Method-Create a sloper or block for a fitted jewel-neck bodice and narrow skirt made to the wearers measurements. Make the sloper of lightweight cardboard with seam allowances. After the sloper has been refined by making a series of muslins the final sloper is used to create patterns for many styles of garments with varying necklines, sleeves, darts etc…
What should be included on completed pattern piece: Style numbers (four digits), Information block (piece ID, Cut (no. of units to cut from each piece) and size), Directions(mark R.S.U. or Face Up. Nap-write Nap w/ short arrow for grain of the pile, Pattern/Direction Card),(used for notes or special directions relating to alterations) and
Grain line (this line should run the entire length of the pattern).
Plain Patterns have perforated numbers that correspond to the sections shown on the pattern layout, to make it easy to identify the various parts.
Printed Patterns which started about 1920 and manufactured by various companies, included the name of each piece printed on it; front, back, side-front etc. Details of construction are also printed, and these are helpful in using the pattern and making the garment.
Patterns with Margins such as McCall patterns have an extra margin outside the seam line. The seam line helps insure a perfect cutting line. “
Drafted Patterns
before modern day tissue-paper patterns, were drafted and largely used by dressmakers. Women learned tedious intricate systems and made their own patterns. This process also proved expensive.
For more information
Sewing instruction videos
Sewing Pattern Portal
