Part 1: Making a Basic Pattern

A basic pattern is a paper version of you.  A basic is made to your measurements and fitted to your figure.  It’s a cutting and figure guide. A paper pattern of you based on your measurements.

Supplies

1.  A roll of wide paper-butcher or firm tissue paper

2.  A medium soft lead pencil

3.  A red pencil for marking

4.  An eraser

5.  A yardstick

6.  A French curve set for the hip line and armscye

7.  A tailors square, for establishing right angles

8.  A tracing wheel

9.  Dressmaking carbon paper

10.  Two pair of scissors-one for paper another for cutting

11.  Pins

12.  A flexible tape measure

13.  Unbleached muslin

14.  Manila tag or heavy paper for the final and permanent basic pattern.

15.  A standard basic pattern that consists of a bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back and a set-in sleeve.  If you’re unable to find a basic pattern you can piece one together using pieces from various patterns.  Make sure they’re the same size however and the seams closely match.

A.  Take your measurements with the aid of a helper.

B.  Purchase a pattern basic: Sample:  Butterick basic, Sample:  Vogue basic, Simplicity basic

About the Basic pattern

1.  The bodice front should have a high, round (jewel) neckline that fits the base of the neck and an armhole for a set-in sleeve.

2.  The bodice back should have a high, round neckline fitting the base of the neck, an armhole for a set-in sleeve, a shoulder dart, and a waistline dart.

NOTE:  The side and shoulder seams of the front and back bodice should match.

3.  The set-in sleeve should be long, fitted, and have one dart at the elbow.  It must fit the armhole of the bodice plus 1 to 1 1/2 inches ease.

4.  The skirt front should have one dart.  Its placement on the skirt should match the position of the waistline dart on the bodice though obviously it will not be the same size.  The skirt waistline must match the bodice waistline.

5.  The skirt back should have one dart that matches the bodice dart in placement.  The skirt waistline must match the bodice waistline.  The side seams of the skirt must match.

C.  Prepare the pattern pieces

1.  Assemble all the equipment you’ll need to adjust the pattern.  Give yourself plenty of workspace.

2.  Iron and lay out the five pattern sections of the basic pattern.

3.  Cut off the seam allowances on the pattern pieces.

4.  Draw the grain line throughout the entire length of each pattern piece.  This is important to ensure the muslin is cut on-grain.

5.  Compare your measurements plus ease, against the basic pattern measurements at corresponding places. See No. 5.

Draw a chart for clarification.  A little math will decide where and how much the pattern needs changing.  Note the amounts onto the pattern as well.  Don’t worry about small changes ( 1/4 inch or less).  These tiny adjustments can be made at the seams in the muslin fitting.

Note:

• Commercial patterns, including a basic pattern, as ease added automatically, therefore you need not add anymore to the basic pattern.  BUT, you should add ease to your body measurements for comparison.
• The standard pattern is only half a pattern.  You will need to halve all your width measurements.
• Feel free to cut sections of your basic pattern apart and adjust the length, width and dart control.  Where you slash-and-spread, insert paper in the opening and scotch tape to position.
• Make changes only where needed.

D.  Make the pattern fit your measurements

Adjust your basic pattern.  Come as close as you can to your measurements.

Other Resources”

Part 2:  How to make a basic pattern:  Making the muslin

Hancock Fabrics – Fashion Fabric Up to 50% off, perfect place to purchase muslin fabric for making your basic.

Tags: how to make a basic, how to use vintage patterns, making a paper muslin pattern