To be your own stylist, when working with vintage or contemporary patterns, it’s essential to learn how to adapt a basic pattern.
This process begins with making a master sloper; followed by a muslin mock up (the sloper constructed in muslin fabric-similar in weight to the actual garment you’re making) to test the fit of the sloper pattern.
The muslin may be cut, marked and altered in any way necessary to acquire a final perfect fit.
Changes to the muslin are then applied to the corresponding sloper-which becomes the ultimate “final pattern of you”.
Once you’ve acquired a perfected sloper, repeat fittings (unless a figure undergoes drastic changes) are unnecessary
So what exactly is a sloper?
It’s a basic garment pattern developed from dress forms, live models, specific measurements or other manufacturer specifications containing no style lines or seam allowances.
Individual pieces of a sloper are referred to as blocks. Blocks don’t include facings, hems, linings or other finishing details. Essentially, it’s a custom-made pattern of the model.
General sloper patterns consist of:
- a bodice front,
- bodice back and
- sleeve blocks.
How can you obtain a sloper?
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Buy a basic pattern (fitting shell) from a store, alter it to fit the specific measurements of the model and make your sloper from that pattern.
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Make your own from scratch.
Key points to remember:
1. Don’t eliminate necessary steps of preparation in making the muslin.
2. Master pattern drafters pay close attention to ensuring exact measurements are taken and applied to the sloper.
3. Don’t over fit. If additional alterations are necessary those changes are applied to the muslin. Once satisfied with alterations made to the muslin, changes are then applied to the sloper.
4. Three primary measurements are needed in buying a basic pattern:
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Bust (taken from the fullest part of the body)
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Hips (taken from the fullest part of the body)
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Waist
Pictures:Vogue Basic 1000.
Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing has a detailed section on muslins/fittings/slopers.
I’m 54 years old and have never heard the term sloper pattern before, not in school and not from any of the dressmaking books I’ve read.
I now intend to make a basic pattern. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Many thanks
Roisin
Wow, that’s astonishing! I’m glad you’re going to give it a try. It’s a really useful tool! My pleasure-send pictures of your progress.
I am a lady of 74 and used to make many garments from purchased patterns. Although my weight/BMI is good, my waist measurement is not what I’d like, so if I do a muslin it would be good to know how to make changes as I improve my shape (even though I work out for an hour at least 3 times a week with free weights (and ankle weights). I play in SCA (medieval reenactment) but have tried to make more fitted (Elizabethan) garments since dropping from 157 to 120#. I can’t affort some of the books I see on this site ($70-80) but I have used a pants pattern marked with 5-6 sizes (without seams). I am currently making a middle eastern pair (blousy) with a very straight long jacket. None of my friends live closeby and I bought a couple of manikins when I had a good job (taller and slimmer than I). I have a cape with lining and would love to get a friend over to pin the lining so I could hem appropriately (currently hangs out here and there).
Hello Virginia,
I can help you with the lining if that’s what you’re asking. Are you in my area? Otherwise if you’re looking for a good sewing book (containing detailed information on muslins (and their alterations) that’s inline with your budget I can’t say it enough-Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing (the older version) is one of the best if not THE best sewing books out there. It’s a steal right now (at least until too many people catch on
). You can get it from Amazon for as little as $8.00 used right now. I’ll post some additional resources for you.
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"I'm No. 1!"
Thank you for this tutorial. I am sick of fussing with patterns, always wondering if they are going to fit properly when finished. I intend to make one of these muslins for myself very soon! My question is, though, can you do this same thing on a live model? What if that live model is yourself? How do you make these alterations on yourself?
Hi, Kelley!
Not a problem. A good fit really is the secret to making a quality garment. Not alot of everyday sewers use muslins on a regular basis anymore. It’s too bad. Designers live by them because they realize the benefits. How significant they are in making your own fashion designs. I mostly use them to test vintage sewing pattern designs to make sure the pattern works before cutting into expensive/costly fabric. I love by them! Muslins are extremely useful in so many ways.
And after you’ve made your own personal muslin of yourself-fit to you and your body measurements-you shouldn’t have to make another unless your body undergoes some type of drastic change.
You can make a muslin of yourself. The success of a good muslin relies on taking good measurements. You should get a friend to help take your measurements because it’s easier to get accurate measurements of you versus you doing it on your own. If you don’t have a friend whom can help take your measurements, I’d suggest taking your measurements a first and second time-rechecking the second measurements against the first to ensure accuracy.
A good muslin is made from a live model-the live model for whom the muslin is made for is best, including you.
When it comes to making the alterations you shouldn’t need any help for that, except a little know-how or a good book.
I have some information on making a muslin (also called a basic (a paper version of a muslin), shell, sloper (the final paper version of a muslin), fitting shell ect..) on this website.
How to make a basic (the paper version of a muslin-the paper version of you in your own measurements).
I’m at present working on a video tutorial on making a muslin so please check back to see that or I’ll shoot you an email.
In the meantime, one of the best sewing books out there depicting and explaining a fitting shell (muslin) is found in Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing’s chapter, “Portfolio of Fitting Methods”. It’s extremely detailed, graphical and useful. This single chapter alone explains making a muslin and how to alter its various parts as needed. Plus, the overall book itself is a very useful resource to have on you sewing bookshelf.
Lastly, YOU ARE NO. 1, you’ve won a free vintage sewing pattern. Send your mailing address to: callie@sewcraftful.com.
Thank you for the question and visiting!
Callie