Hints: Taking Measurements

Here are some suggestions to keep in mind when working with vintage sewing patterns in particular, but are helpful when working with contemporary fashions as well:

When taking measurements wear whatever foundation garments (slips, panties, girdles etc..) that are normally worn under the garment you’re making.

1. A flexible non-stretch 120” Tape Measure, a necessary and inexpensive work tool, provides alot of working room and is virtually indestructible.
2. The subject should sit down when taking measurements for skirts or pants.  This allows for natural movement and bending.
3. When looking a pattern envelopes size charts and your measurements border between two sizes-choose the smaller size.  Grading up is easier than grading down.
4. If the measuring discrepancy between the bodice and skirt is more than one (1) size buy two patterns.  One for the bodice and the other for the skirt.
5. If you’re 5 foot 5 or less, choose a pattern one size smaller than your bust measurement normally indicates.
6. If you’re taller than 5 foot 5 or large busted choose the size indicated by the bust measurement.
7. Get someone to help take your body measurements.

All patterns are created from a “staple” (block, master or basic pattern) made to body measurements plus ease.  Spadea vintage patterns did not adhere to industry standard measurements.

Ease was not standard among sewing pattern manufacturers.  Not all vintage sewing patterns have ease built in.  In any case, you may find that you want a little more or less than the pattern provides.  If so, you can add or subtract the amount needed.

How to tell how much ease you like in your clothes

1. Try on the garment.
2. Pinch out the excess fabric until the garment fits against the body.
3. Measure the amount of fabric in the “pinch”.
4. This ease is added to your body measurements.
5. This total is them compared to the measurements of the pattern envelope.