Continue from Part 2: How to Make a Basic Pattern
G. Line up the muslin
1. Take the marked muslin apart.
2. Press each section flat.
3. Study the muslin. You may find that the right and left sides of each section are not identical. This could be because the right and left sides of your figure are different. Make an honest judgment as to whether it’s your body or an error in measuring.
H. Balance your basic pattern
1. Fold the muslin patterns (all except the sleeve) on the center lines. Pin both sides-right and left together.
2. Note the discrepancies between the two sides and decide which to use. Compromise where necessary.
3. Balance the changes: Draw the curve of half the neckline to be duplicated on the other half. Make both shoulders alike in width, both armholes alike in size and shape. Center the darts; equalize the amount of control. For instance: If the total amount in tow waistline darts equals 5 inches, make each dart 2 1.2 inches. Determine and draw the side seams, the waistline, and the hem. Make both sleeves match.
4. Make all corresponding seams match in length.
5. Make each pair of dart legs equal in length.
6. Make sure the sleeve cap fits the armhole with the correct amount of ease.
7. True up all lines with the appropriate instruments.
I. Refine the second muslin
1. Trace the correct muslin pattern onto a fresh muslin.
2. Stitch up all dart seams.
3. Put a zipper in the 2nd muslin.
4. Try on the muslin testing for ease and comfort. Sit in it, stand in it and walk around in it.
5. Refine the fit. Do whatever you need to make the muslin comfortable and more becoming.
6. When satisfied, take the muslin apart. Press each section and trace onto heavy Kraft paper, butcher paper or Manila tag.
J. Permanent muslin
Note: Although you can use a variety of patterns, Manila tag is most professional and is what professional pattern makers use.
1. True up the pattern once more if needed. Use your drafting instruments. Your comparison will be more accurate if the shape of your pattern bears a reasonable resemblance to the commercial pattern.
2. Put necessary symbols and information on the basic pattern. Label each piece, mark the center, draw a sufficiently long grain line, mark notches for easy joining. NOTE: the fact the muslin has NO SEAM ALLOWANCES, NO SHOULDER PAD ALLOWANCES, and NO HEM .
Record the number of inches from the floor the skirt was measured and the height of the hem.