The Evolution of Sewing Patterns
In the world of vintage sewing patterns there are two types:
- PRINTED. Sewing patterns where construction pattern markings are printed directly onto each pattern piece conveniently for the sewer.
- PERFORATED. Sewing patterns where construction markings are symbolized by simple cutouts: triangles, squares and circles, for example.
When Ebenezer Butterick and his wife first invented sewing patterns they were crudely drawn onto stiff cardboard or whatever else was available.
As more and more pattern companies entered the market and competition increased pattern companies began coming up with new methods of attracting customers to their brand.
Pattern envelopes appeared and the information contained on them became more informative and helpful to the user. How-to information went from simplistic instructions on the envelope to detailed instruction sheets even the most basic of sewer could follow. Pattern perforations improved and eventually evolved into the printed word and included line drawings to indicate construction markings.

3 Comments
Calandra67
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I should also note if you have a perforated sewing pattern take one pattern piece for example a bodice-if there are perforations symbolizing the seam line measure from the edge of the pattern to the perforated seam line. If that measurement equals the stated seam allowance given in the pattern that’s proof that the seam is already added to the pattern. Otherwise you know you’ll need to add a seam allowance.
margaret
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are seamlines included or need to be added?
Calandra
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Good question. Seam allowances on vintage sewing patterns is extremely important. In fact, some patterns specifically state to follow the seam allowance exactly or the garment design will not work. That said, each sewing pattern manufacturer's seam allowance/requirements are different. You'll need to read the instruction sheet that's included with the pattern to decipher whether or not seam allowances are added to the pattern pieces. And to determine what the seam allowance should be if it’s not automatically part of the pattern piece itself.