How to examine vintage sewing patterns

October 19, 2009
By Sew Craftful

How to examine vintage sewing patternsNo matter if a pattern seller tells  you otherwise, it’s virtually impossible to count all pattern pieces AND ensure present pattern pieces of each individual pattern belong to each pattern on hand; without checking each pattern piece against the instruction sheet and envelope to ensure present pieces are in the correct envelope for the correct pattern. 

Counting pattern pieces is an easy process, if the pattern is in it’s original factory folds.  In that case, it’s assumed everything is in tact and the present pattern belongs to the pattern identified on the envelope automatically.  But even this assumption can be wrong because I’ve received factory fold patterns that weren’t the pattern pieces for the particular sewing pattern. 

This could be the result of human error of God knows what else.

True vintage sewing patterns in existence have been around for a very long time-an average of 40 years.
I have vintage patterns older than I am.  Who knows of the places they’ve been or the stories they could tell if they could talk.

Present pieces doesn’t necessarily mean correct pattern. 

Counting pieces is a daunting task when you’re dealing with a few patterns, let alone when dealing with thousands.     

Patterns that contain “homemade” pieces or those that are unprinted and perforated patterns lend to another set of difficulties.   

In that case, one has to not only check each individual piece against the envelope and instruction sheet, but also examine and decipher each unmarked piece to ensure it belongs to the pattern and what’s what.

Now, imagine doing that with hundreds, let along thousands of vintage patterns.

More likely than not, when checking patterns the present pieces are simply counted against those stated on the envelope. 

Many sellers simply “check spot” a count, but not fully examine pieces against the pattern at hand.   

Normally, if  missing pieces are discovered, the counter will either investigate further to determine which piece or pieces are missing, or simply state pieces are missing with no further investigation.

Here’s an example of a recent personal pattern purchase of a Vogue Couturier Design pattern:

Recently, I purchased this beautiful Muir pattern.  The seller stated the pattern was complete and that the label was present.

Initially everything appeared to be in tact.  On closer examination, I noticed the instruction sheets were for Vogue pattern 9824, not the Vogue 2883 ordered. Plus, there were four pages of instruction sheets.   

After looking through the instruction sheets, I discovered two pages belonged to Vogue 2883, which made the instructions of that pattern complete.

The pattern pieces also included an assortment for both patterns.  I sorted the Vogue 2883 pattern pieces from Vogue 9824.  In the end, my pattern was complete.

Do I believe the original seller actually checked my pattern for completeness before mailing as indicated?

No.

Was the seller deceitful or just plain careless? 

Maybe. Who knows?

As a collector and seller, I understand the nature of buying and selling vintage sewing patterns. There’s a small amount of risk involved.  

In the end, my Vogue 2883 is complete. And I now have an instruction sheet for Vogue 9824.

I believe all sellers make a genuine good faith effort to ensure your pattern is complete or at least provide you with enough information for you to make an informed buying decision.

Question: As a seller do I count pattern pieces.
Answer: Yes, I do. IF pieces aren’t counted for some reason or other-that information is fully disclosed.

For more information

How to buy vintage sewing patterns

Sewing 101:  Vintage sewing pattern lingo, it’s worth knowing

The making of McCall’s patterns

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One Response to How to examine vintage sewing patterns

  1. Doti Roraback on July 12, 2010 at 10:59 am

    You have a wonderful site. So much great info. I have a small etsy site and would like to mention some of your articles at my shop. I think these are topics that need to be known. Thanks Doti

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