How to take measurements hints and suggestions

For obvious reasons, proper measurements are fundamental to sewing. 

Here are some suggestions to keep in mind when working with vintage sewing patterns in particular, but are helpful when working with contemporary fashions as well:   

When taking measurements wear whatever foundation garments (slips, panties, girdles etc..) that are normally worn under the garment you’re making. 

1. Use a non-stretch measuring tape in order to get the most precise measurements.
2. If making skirts or pants, measure the waist while sitting.
3. When looking a pattern envelopes size charts and your measurements border between tow sizes-choose the smaller size.  It’s easier to grade up than it is to grade down.
4. If the measuring discrepency between the bodice and skirt is more than one (1) size buy two patterns.  One for the bodice and a second for the skirt.
5. If you’re 5 foot 5 or less, choose a pattern one size smaller than your bust measurement would normally indicate.
6. If you’re taller than 5 foot 5 or are large busted, choose the size indicated by the bust measurement.
7. Get someone to help take your body measurements.

All patterns are created from a “staple” (block, master or basic pattern) made to body measurements plus ease. 

NOTE:  Spadea vintage patterns did not adhere to industry standard measurements. 

Ease was not standard among sewing pattern manufacturers.  Not all vintage sewing patterns have ease built in.  In any case, you may find that you want a little more or less than the pattern provides.  If so, you can add or subtract the amount your choose.

How to tell how much ease you like in your clothes

1. Try on the garment.
2. Pinch out the excess fabric until the garment fits against the body.
3. Measure the amount of fabric in the “pinch”.
4. This ease is added to your body measurements.
5. This total is them compared to the measurements of the pattern envelope.