A basic pattern is a paper version of you.  A basic is made to your measurements and fitted to your figure.  It is a cutting and figure guide. It is a paper pattern of you based on your measurements.

Supplies

1.  A roll of wide paper-butcher or firm tissue paper are appropriate.

2.  A medium soft lead pencil

3.  A red pencil for marking

4.  An eraser

5.  A 12-inch ruler

6.  A yardstick

7.  A French curve set for the hipline and armscye

8.  A tailors square, for establishing right angles

9.  A tracing wheel

10.  Dressmaking carbon paper

11.  Two pair of scissors-one for paper another for cutting

12.  Pins

13.  A flexible tape measure

14.  Unbleached muslin

15.  Manila tag or heavy paper for the final and permanent basic pattern.

16.  A standard basic pattern that consists of a bodice front, bodice back, skirt front, skirt back and a set-in sleeve.  If you’re unable to find a basic pattern you can piece one together using pieces from various patterns.  Make sure they’re the same size however and the seams closely match.

A.  Take your measurements with the aid of a helper.

B.  Purchase a pattern basic:  Sample:  Butterick basic, Sample:  Vogue basic, Simplicity basic

About the Basic pattern

1.  The bodice front should have a high, round (jewel) neckline that fits the base of the neck and an armhole for a set-in sleeve.

2.  The bodice back should have a high, round neckline fitting the base of the neck, an armhole for a set-in sleeve, a shoulder dart, and a waistline dart. 

NOTE:  The side and shoulder seams of the front and back bodice should match.

3.  The set-in sleeve should be long, fitted, and have one dart at the elbow.  It must fit the armhole of the bodice plus 1 to 1 1/2 inches ease.

4.  The skirt front should have one dart.  Its placement on the skirt should match the position of the waistline dart on the bodice though obviously it will not be the same size.  The skirt waistline must match the bodice waistline.

5.  The skirt back should have one dart that matches the bodice dart in placement.  The skirt waistline must match the bodice waistline.  The side seams of the skirt must match. 

C.  Prepare the pattern pieces

1.  Assemble all the equipment you’ll need to adjust the pattern.  Give yourself plenty of workspace. 

2.  Iron and lay out the five pattern sections of the basic pattern.

3.  Cut off the seam allowances on the pattern pieces.

4.  Draw the grain line throughout the entire length of each pattern piece.  This is important to ensure the muslin is cut on-grain.

5.  Compare your measurements plus ease, against the basic pattern measurements at corresponding places. See No. 5. 

Draw a chart for clarification.  A little math will decide where and how much the pattern needs changing.  Note the amounts onto the pattern as well.  Don’t worry about small changes ( 1/4 inch or less).  These tiny adjustments can be made at the seams in the muslin fitting.

Note: 

• Commercial patterns, including a basic pattern, as ease added automatically, therefore you need not add anymore to the basic pattern.  BUT, you should add ease to your body measurements for comparison.
• The standard pattern is only half a pattern.  You will need to halve all your width measurements.
• Feel free to cut sections of your basic pattern apart and adjust the length, width and dart control.  Where you slash-and-spread, insert paper in the opening and scotch tape to position. 
• Make changes only where needed.

D.  Make the pattern fit your measurements

Adjust your basic pattern.  Come as close as you can to your measurements. 

E.  Make a trial muslin

Make the trial muslin in medium weight unbleached muslin. 

1.  Straighten the grain of the fabric by tearing both cut ends.

2.  Pin the torn edges together.  Pin the selvages together. 

3.  Lay out the corrected basic pattern on the cloth making sure that the grain line is parallel to the selvages throughout the entire pattern.

4.  Cut out the cloth leaving 1-inch seam allowances on all edges but the neck.  Make this seam allowance 1/2 inch.

5.  Trace all seam lines and darts onto the muslin with dressmaker’s carbon paper and a tracing wheel.

6.  Mark the center front and center back clearly with the red colored pencil.

7.  Mark the horizontal grain line across the chest, across the back and across the hips, both front and back.

8.  Clip all curved edges-at the neck, the armholes, the sleeve, the underarms.

9.  Pin all darts and seams closely and carefully along the stitching line.  Do not pin the bodice to the skirt, yet.   Leave an opening at either the center front or center back so that you can get in and out of the muslin.

Note:  Pins places at right angles to the stitching line restrict the fit of the muslin.

10.  Try on the muslin with all the markings and pinning to the outside (right side). 

F.  The fitting

Follow this sequence, marking all correction in red pencil.  Mark new notches wherever they prove helpful in reassembling the parts of the pattern. 

1. Bodice

2.  Skirt

3.  Sleeve

G.  Line up the muslin

1.  Take the marked muslin apart.

2.  Press each section flat.

3.  Study the muslin.  You may find that the right and left sides of each section are not identical.  This could be because the right and left sides of your figure are different.    Make an honest judgement as to whether it’s your body or an error in measuring. 

G.  Balance your basic pattern

1.  Fold the muslin patterns (all except the sleeve) on the center lines.  Pin both sides-right and left together.

2.  Note the discrepancies between the two sides and decide which to use.  Compromise where necessary. 

3.  Balance the changes:  Draw the curve of half the neckline to be duplicated on the other half.  Make both shoulders alinke in width, both armholes alike in size and shape.  Center the darts; equalize the amount of control.  For instance:  If the total amount intow waistline darts equals 5 inches, make each dart 2 1.2 inches.  Determine and draw the side seams, the waistline, and the hem.  Make both sleeves match. 

4.  Make all corresponding seams match in length.

5.  Make each pair of dart legs equal in length.

6.  Make sure the sleeve cap fits the armhole with the correct amount of ease.

7.  True up all lines with the appropriate instruments.

H.  Make the refine 2nd Muslin

1.  Trace the correct muslin pattern onto a fresh muslin. 

2.  Stitch up all dart seams.

3.  Put a zipper in the 2nd muslin.

4.  Try on the muslin testing for ease and comfort.  Sit in it, stand in it and walk around in it. 

5.  Refine the fit.  Do whatever you need to make the muslin comfortable and more becoming. 

6.  When satisfied, take the muslin apart.  Press each section and trace onto heavy Kraft paper, butcher paper or Manila tag.

I.  Permanent muslin

Note:  Although you can use a variety of patterns, Manila tag is most professional and is what professional patternmakers use.

1.  True up the pattern once more if needed.  Use your drafting instruments.  Your comparison will be more accurate if the shape of your pattern bears a reasonable resemblance to the commercial pattern.

2.  Put necessary symbols and information on the basic pattern.  Label each piece, mark the center, draw a sufficiently long grain line, mark notches for easy joining.  NOTE:  the fact the muslin has NO SEAM ALLOWANCES, NO SHOULDER PAD ALLOWANCES, and NO HEM .

Record the number of inches from the floor the skirt was measured and the heigth of the hem.  Remind yourself that the darts are unshortened and that ease is included.  Note the date of the fitting. 

For more information

How to pick a starter pattern

 How to use a basic pattern with a commercial pattern

How to make a sloper and basic patterns

Vintage pattern markings