How to use a basic pattern with a commercial pattern

Select a commercial pattern because you like the style.  A basic pattern is used to make the style fit your figure.  It is a guide to use with a commercial pattern. 

Remember

1.  The darts in your basic pattern are unshortened while the darts in the style pattern are shortened.  In the final pattern to be used for cutting and construction, the darts will be shortened.

2.  Your basic pattern has no seam allowance on it while the commercial pattern does.  Comparison is made from seam line to seam line.  A garment fits on the seam line not on the cutting edge.

3.  Your basic pattern has no hem; the style pattern does.

4.  Your basic pattern has no shoulder pad allowance.  Check the sewing directions to see if  your commercial pattern does.  Make adjustments when needed. 

5.  Use a colored pencil or pen for marking so that the changes will be clearly visible.

6.  The style pattern should be a complete record of all the necessary changes. The same changes will affect the interfacing, the underlining and the interlining. 

7.  Tuck, pin, patch, Scotch tape, insert paper, write notes to yourseld, do anything that’s needed to incorporate the changes right into the pattern.

For more information

How to make a basic pattern

How to compare a basic to a commercial pattern

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