1. How to Make Darts
Darts provide shaping and are actually tapered tucks. Darts should be a width and length that’s smooth and have no bulges at its end. On some vintage sewing patterns dart markings are shown by dots on you pattern instruction illustrations or circles (perforations) on the pattern piece itself. Transfer darts to fabric with tailor’s chalk or tailor’s tacks. Bring together the markings that indicate the perforations, pin and baste. Always pin from top down and from bottom up, working alternately from top and bottom so that the dart will be smooth.
Types of Darts:
- Hip, shoulder or Underarm darts
- Body darts
- Waistline darts
- Back-neck darts
- Sleeve darts
2. How to Make Various Seams
In general, all seams should be machine stitched and pressed open. An exception to this is where they are to be turned to one side, for example when constructing a welt seam for a special style effect. If so, the under seam is trimmed away to ease the bulk.
- Plain-Stitch inside or outside the basting line.
- Bound-Often used in tailored garments. Seam binding, bias or ready-made binding lighter in weight than the fabric is used as a seam.
- Pinked-Pinking shears are used to prevent seam raveling.
- French-Used on organdie, lawn and other sheers. Make a 1/8-inch seam on the right side of fabric. Trim close. Press open. Stitch a second seam from wrong side to conceal the initial seam.
- Flat Fell (Flat Felled)-Use for sturdy clothes, men’s and boy’s shirts, pajama and others. Stitch on the basting line from the right side of fabric. Trim under-seam edge away to within 1/4-inch of stitched line. Turn other edge in 1/8-inch and stitch to make a flat seam.
- Princess seams are very long singular seams that stretch the full length of the front or back of a garment. They’re meant to provide shaping.
3. How to Insert Zippers
Zippers are found on vintage fashions and as elements of sewing patterns as early as the 1930s, but zippers were highly popularized in the mid-1940s and 1950s fashion patterns (dresses, pants, short and lingerie) due women’s desire to be streamlined and the popularity of sexy foundations garments.
4. How To Apply scalloping, binding and rick-rack
Used on everything from shirts, skirts, dresses, collars, children and baby, and aprons.
5. How to Alter Patterns
Most likely your vintage sewing pattern will need some type of alterations. There are a number of methods used in altering vintage sewing pattern, including making then altering a muslin based on individual measurements, the slash and spread method and flat-pattern alterations. Experiment until you’re comfortable with a method or combination of methods.
6. How to Make Gussets or Godets
Wikipedia:
In sewing, a gusset is a triangular or square piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add breadth or reduce stress. Gussets were used at the shoulders, underarms, and hems of traditional shirts and chemises made of rectangular lengths of linen to shape the garments to the body.
A godet is an inserted piece of fabric that gives fullness or decoration to a garment. The pointed godet is the the most difficult to construct because it requires a seam in the garment that tapers off to practically nothing at the top, so that the seaming at the top is smooth. When pressed open, the points at the top are caught by tiny stitches that give strength.
When a vintage sewing pattern calls for a godet, cut each slash separately to the same depth and on a true fabric thread. Baste down the sides beginning at the top each time.
Types of Godets:
- Stayed Godet
- Round-top godet
- Godet in seam
- Circular flounce
7. How To Embroider, Applique or Use Transfer Patterns
Many vintage sewing pattern, especially children, aprons and shirt blouses contain transfer patterns to use to add decorative or monogramming effects to garments. Most patterns include instructions on applying the pattern and suggestions for embroidering or appliqueing the effect. I use Saral transfer paper (available in an assortment of colors) to preserve and reproduce transfer patterns I find in my vintage sewing patterns.
8. How to Finishing a Garment Properly
Constructed garments must look as good on the inside as they do on the outside.
9. How to Construct Pockets
Many vintage sewing patterns include pockets. Pocket are of three main kinds: applied (patch pockets), where extra material for the pocket appears on the surface of the garment; set-in pockets, where an opening is made in the garment and the pouch of the pocket is concealed within; and pockets that are cut in one with some part of the garment.
10. How to Understand Vintage Sewing Pattern Instructions
Thank you for your detailed response. I really appreciate. it. By the way, I'm not even sure what I won, if indeed I did win! Thanks again.
Not a problem. I hope the information was helpful.
Yes, you did win. I pick out and send a random vintage sewing pattern to winners. Mostly to encourage visitors to sew with vintage sewing patterns. Send your mailing address to comments@sewcraftful.com if you'd like me to mail the pattern.
Thanks!
Hi.
"I'm No.1."
My question: I'm not sure if I can find such a thing, but you seem like you may know of a source for old-school sewing patterns – the kind that have the pattern shapes overprinted onto each other in different colors where you have to trace to get the pieces drawn, like the picture here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/68259359@N00/2219665…
Do you know what these are called or where I might be able to find one? Thanks for any leads you can offer!
Hi, Julie
Thank you for visiting,
Dressmaker templates, Pattern drafts and pattern templates are some of the words I’ve heard to describe these drawing used to draw the outline of sewing patterns. They are hard to find. On occassion, you can find them on eBay. I found a set at the Goodwill Outlet Center, but as it goes with finding items at thrifts-you never know what you’ll come across. It’s like treasure hunting.
I don’t know of any one place that sells them, but I’ll look around for you and get back to you if I have an update. In the meantime, here are some suggestions:
1. I have templates for victorian pattern drafting-you actually make the pattern yourself following directions. A little more than tracing is required.
2. Designing with Dusan (1974-1982) is a really good source and may be of help to you. This set teaches you how to draw your own patterns, and adjust and fit your own commercial patterns. It comes with practice pattern templates for popular basic dress designs, a book, drafting tools (including a French Curve!)etc..,
I’ll post some pics in a separate post.
3. Some older (vintage magazines) like Golden Hands contain full-size templates for various designs others require scaling.
Next, you are No. 1. So far, you’re the only person who’s commented and entered properly. If there are no other comments by days end-you automatically win. Be sure to check back! Good luck!